Install guide
How to replace motorcycle exhaust systems
60 minutes at home, 1 h at a workshop (about $95 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: moderate.
Job summary
| DIY time | 60 min |
|---|---|
| Shop labour | 1 h |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Fitment type | Slip-on (bolt to stock mid-pipe) or full system |
| Materials | Stainless, titanium, carbon-wrapped |
| Weight saving | 2-4 kg slip-on, up to 8 kg full system |
Step by step
1. Confirm the part fits
Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. Confirm the slip-on matches your link-pipe diameter and lambda sensor bung
2. Prepare the bike
Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.
3. Remove the old part
Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 24 minutes here on a moderate job.
4. Fit the new part
Fitment type: Slip-on (bolt to stock mid-pipe) or full system. Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.
5. Torque and verify
Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.
6. Test and re-check
Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.
Do it now if you see these
- Blowing gaskets or a ticking leak at the header joint
- Rusted-through baffle or perforated can
- Failed emissions or excessive noise at a track day
Check before you start
- Confirm the slip-on matches your link-pipe diameter and lambda sensor bung
- Check whether the system is road-legal marked or track-only
- Budget for a fuelling module on any full system
- Replace the exhaust gasket every time the joint is separated
Find the right part
FAQ
Do I need to remap after a slip-on?
Usually no for a road slip-on with a db killer. A full system removing the catalytic converter almost always needs a fuelling module.