Install guide
60 minutes at home, 1 h at a workshop (about $95 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: moderate.
| DIY time | 60 min |
|---|---|
| Shop labour | 1 h |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Mounting | Engine mount bolt, frame-specific brackets |
| Slider material | Delrin / POM head on steel mount |
| Typical coverage | Frame, axles, bar ends, engine case |
1. Confirm the part fits
Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. No-cut sliders keep bodywork intact; cut sliders sit closer to the frame
2. Prepare the bike
Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.
3. Remove the old part
Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 24 minutes here on a moderate job.
4. Fit the new part
Mounting: Engine mount bolt, frame-specific brackets. Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.
5. Torque and verify
Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.
6. Test and re-check
Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.
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At road speeds on tarmac they reduce damage. In a high-speed off into soft ground they can catch — which is why track bodies use short, no-cut sliders.