Install guide
20 minutes at home, 0.3 h at a workshop (about $29 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: easy.
| DIY time | 20 min |
|---|---|
| Shop labour | 0.3 h |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Material | 3mm cast acrylic or polycarbonate |
| Mounting | 4-6 point bolt-on with well-nuts |
| Height range | Sport -50mm to touring +150mm over stock |
1. Confirm the part fits
Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. Match the screen to your riding position, not just your bike
2. Prepare the bike
Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.
3. Remove the old part
Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 8 minutes here on a easy job.
4. Fit the new part
Material: 3mm cast acrylic or polycarbonate. Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.
5. Torque and verify
Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.
6. Test and re-check
Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.
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No. Noise is worst when turbulent air hits the base of the helmet. A screen that ends just below your line of sight usually beats a very tall one.