Install guide
180 minutes at home, 3 h at a workshop (about $285 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: moderate.
| DIY time | 180 min |
|---|---|
| Shop labour | 3 h |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Material | Injection-moulded ABS (OE standard) |
| Fastener spec | M5/M6 stainless with rubber grommets |
| Panel count | Typically 12-20 pieces for a full sport kit |
1. Confirm the part fits
Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. Confirm the kit is listed for your exact generation, not just the model name
2. Prepare the bike
Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.
3. Remove the old part
Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 72 minutes here on a moderate job.
4. Fit the new part
Material: Injection-moulded ABS (OE standard). Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.
5. Torque and verify
Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.
6. Test and re-check
Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.
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Only inside the same generation. Manufacturers change frame and subframe mounting points between generations, so a kit for a later refresh will not line up.
Most complete kits ship painted and clear-coated in a chosen scheme. Colour match to a factory paint code is approximate, not exact.