Install guide
45 minutes at home, 0.8 h at a workshop (about $76 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: moderate.
| DIY time | 45 min |
|---|---|
| Shop labour | 0.8 h |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| System voltage | 12V, charging at 13.8-14.6V at 5,000 rpm |
| Battery types | AGM lead-acid or LiFePO4 lithium |
| Accessory fusing | 5-10A inline per circuit |
1. Confirm the part fits
Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. Confirm terminal polarity and case size before ordering a battery
2. Prepare the bike
Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.
3. Remove the old part
Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 18 minutes here on a moderate job.
4. Fit the new part
System voltage: 12V, charging at 13.8-14.6V at 5,000 rpm. Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.
5. Torque and verify
Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.
6. Test and re-check
Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.
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Yes if you ride often and use a lithium-specific charger. For a bike stored all winter on a basic trickle charger, AGM is more forgiving.