Install guide

How to replace motorcycle controls and levers

25 minutes at home, 0.4 h at a workshop (about $38 in labour at US independent rates). Difficulty: easy.

Job summary

DIY time25 min
Shop labour0.4 h
DifficultyEasy
Bar diameter22mm (7/8in) or 28.6mm (1 1/8in) fat bar
AdjustmentTypically 6-position reach
MaterialBillet 6061 aluminium

Step by step

  1. 1. Confirm the part fits

    Check the part against your exact model year and, where possible, your VIN. Buy levers listed for your master cylinder, not just your bike model

  2. 2. Prepare the bike

    Park on level ground, use paddock stands or a centre stand as required, let the engine cool, and disconnect the battery negative if you are touching wiring.

  3. 3. Remove the old part

    Work in the reverse of assembly order, bagging and labelling fasteners. Expect around 10 minutes here on a easy job.

  4. 4. Fit the new part

    Bar diameter: 22mm (7/8in) or 28.6mm (1 1/8in) fat bar. Fit dry unless the manual calls for grease or thread-lock, and start every fastener by hand.

  5. 5. Torque and verify

    Torque every fastener to the manual value with a calibrated wrench. Never guess on brake, axle, or engine-mount hardware.

  6. 6. Test and re-check

    Do a stationary function check, then a slow test ride. Re-check fasteners and settings after the first 100 km.

Do it now if you see these

  • Bent or snapped lever after a tip-over
  • Numb hands from vibration through the bars
  • Reach that forces a stretch to two-finger the brake

Check before you start

  • Buy levers listed for your master cylinder, not just your bike model
  • Folding levers survive tip-overs far better than fixed billet
  • Check grip diameter and throttle-side length before ordering
  • Torque perch clamps to spec — over-tightening cracks alloy

Find the right part

FAQ

Are aftermarket levers road legal?

Yes in most markets, provided they operate the master cylinder correctly and have no sharp exposed ends.