Start with the contact patches
Tyres lose pressure in storage and harden with age. Set pressures cold to the placard figure, then look for cracking in the sidewall grooves and check the four-digit date code — a tyre over five years old is past its useful life regardless of tread depth.
Flat spots from months on the ground usually work out within a few miles of riding; permanent deformation or visible cracking does not.
Brakes: the most common spring surprise
- Surface rust on discs is normal and wears off in the first few stops — expect a poor first brake application and plan for it.
- Check pad thickness against the wear indicator; below about 2 mm of friction material, replace.
- Brake fluid absorbs moisture. If it is dark or older than two years, flush it — this is the highest-value fluid job on a motorcycle.
- Squeeze both levers and hold: a lever that slowly sinks means air or a failing seal, not a bleed you can skip.
The fifteen-point pre-season list
| Item | Check | Action if failed |
|---|---|---|
| Tyre pressure | Cold, placard value | Inflate |
| Tyre age/condition | Date code, cracking | Replace |
| Brake pads | Thickness vs indicator | Replace |
| Brake fluid | Colour and age | Flush if dark or 2+ years |
| Chain tension | Manual slack figure | Adjust and lube |
| Sprockets | Hooked or pointed teeth | Replace as a kit with the chain |
| Engine oil | Level and colour | Change if stored on old oil |
| Coolant | Level in reservoir | Top up with correct mix |
| Battery | Resting voltage 12.6 V+ | Charge or replace |
| Lights | All functions including brake light | Replace bulbs/units |
| Controls | Cables and levers free | Lubricate or replace |
| Fasteners | Axle, caliper, bar bolts | Torque to spec |
| Fuel | Smells fresh, not varnish | Drain and refill |
| Suspension | No fork-seal weeping | Service or reseal |
| Gear | Helmet age, armour, visor | Replace as needed |
Ride the first hour like you are re-learning
Your inputs decay faster than the bike does. Give yourself a quiet route, brake earlier than you think you need to, and treat the first hour as practice rather than a test of the bike.
Roads in early season still carry grit, salt residue and gravel washed into corner exits. Widen your margins for at least the first few rides.
Frequently asked questions
- What should I check first after winter storage?
- Tyre pressure, brake function and battery voltage — in that order. They are the three things that can end a first ride badly.
- Do I need new brake fluid every year?
- No. Every two years is the common manufacturer interval; do it sooner if the fluid is dark or the lever feel is spongy.
- How much does a spring service cost?
- Doing tyres, pads, oil and a fluid flush yourself is mostly parts cost. At a shop the labour is the bigger half — our price guides show independent and dealer rates per job for 16 countries.
- Is it worth replacing the chain and sprockets together?
- Yes. A new chain on worn sprockets wears out quickly, and sprockets are cheap relative to the labour of doing the job twice.
Related guides
Some links on this page are affiliate links. See our affiliate disclosure.